Day 3: On the Road to Tandayapa Lodge
Rising early became the tour mantra. Following another sampling of the hotel’s breakfast buffet we gathered in the lobby with our packed bags where we were enthusiastically greeted by José Illanes, and our driver Niko. With introductions complete, we grabbed our luggage and headed out the front entrance to board our bus. We would not see the Hotel Quito again until the day before our departure for home.
What a pleasant surprise to discover that our ground transportation for the duration of our tour was easily large enough to handle not only our luggage but that everyone would be afforded their own window seat! A make or break deal on any birding tour is comfort between destinations. Both our bus and Niko, our trusted driver, proved to be a huge plus during our travels.
We wound our way out of Quito, this time heading northwest into the Andes. The main attraction on our way to Tandayapa Lodge would be the Yanacocha Reserve located about an hour’s drive from Quito. Situated on the western slope of Pichincha Volcano at roughly 10,500 feet, the reserve is one of a number of reserves under the watchful eye of the Jocotoco Foundation.
On the road leading up to the reserve entrance we encountered cooperative CURVE-BILLED TINAMOU. We typically think of tinamou as deep jungle denizens, mostly heard and rarely seen. But this bird was acting more like a Ring-necked Pheasant – walking the road in scrubby habitat in broad daylight!
After parking inside the reserve entrance, we found a hummingbird feeder visited by a BUFF-WINGED STARFRONLET. As we started our trek up the sloped trail, clouds began to roll in, limiting distance viewing. Vegetation was more dense than the wide-open views we had experienced at Antisana. This was our first challenging birding of the tour with neck craning looks at BLACK-CHESTED, SCARLET-BELLIED, and HOODED MOUNTAIN-TANAGERS high up in the foliage. MASKED and GLOSSY FLOWERPIERCER, SMOKY BUSH-TYRANT, SPECTACLED WHITESTART, and a rather noisy but secretive RUFOUS ANTPITTA which some of us were able to briefly catch sight of in the dense foliage undergrowth. Another noisy bird but one that completely eluded being seen was OCELLATED TAPACULO.
Further along the winding trail a few folks had tantalizing glimpses of GRASS-GREEN TANAGER (we would have better looks later in the trip). SUPERCILIARIED HEMISPINGUS, GOLDEN-CROWNED TANAGER, BLUE-BACKED CONEBILL, WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET, and STREAK TUFTEDCHEEK were other finds. Heard but not seen: BROWN-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT.
Hummingbird feeders were interspersed at various points along the trail. A large collection of feeders were also found near the end of the trail. All afforded us good looks at several hummingbirds including new for the day: GREAT SAPPHIREWING, SAPPHIRE-VENTED PUFFLEG, GOLDEN-BREASTED PUFFLEG, TYRIAN METALTAIL and the unbelievable SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD. At breakfast we discovered that it was Rita’s birthday. She now confided that what she had wished for was to see this hummingbird, her top trip target bird. Happy Birthday, Rita! Alas, we whiffed on seeing the critically endangered rare hummer for which the reserve was primarily set aside – the Black-breasted Puffleg. However, some folks did catch a glimpse of GREEN-FRONTED LANCEBILL.
At the end of the trail, where there should have been a commanding view off a very, steep drop-off, we found only fog. We did however find a RUFOUS WREN foraging in the understory. A fair trade.
During our return hike back down the trail, we added CROWNED CHAT-TYRANT, RUFOUS-NAPED BRUSH-FINCH, STRIPE-HEADED BRUSH-FINCH, WHITE-BANDED TYRANNULET, WHITE-BROWED SPINETAIL, and a few skulking ANDEAN GUAN.
Back again at the reserve entrance, we broke for a box lunch. The clouds had cleared somewhat as sun shone through to warm us up. A convenient baño and primitive gift shop, which sold mainly T-shirts sporting the Jocotoco Foundation logo (the Jocotoco Antpitta) attracted our attention.
Lunch out of the away, we started off toward Tandayapa Lodge. The main highway from Quito to Tandayapa by taxi was a mere a 1½ hour drive. However, speed was not our main priority whereas birding back mountain roads was. We enjoyed roadside birding breaks and the opportunity to stop when birds of interest were seen. How luxurious it was to be able to walk and bird and have our bus trail behind us so we wouldn’t have to retrace our steps. Especially helpful when birding downhill!
Our route took us through the Alambi River Valley along the old Nono-Mindo Road. Rain began to dog us and would pretty much be a theme as part of almost every day of our tour. But it rarely stopped us from birding. “It is what it is”, became a common response whenever rain fell.
The road twisted and wound its way through spectacular vertical habitat. Glimpsing out the bus windows, one might not see the road - only a vertical drop of a couple thousand feet into jungle abyss. Waterfalls appeared on mountain sides, plunging distances equivalent to the height of the Sears’s Tower. Perhaps higher.
Back road birds included: CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER, TURQUOISE and BEAUTIFUL JAY, SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE, WHITE-WINGED BRUSH-FINCH, SLATY-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT, and MASKED TROGON. Richard and Mike, caught a brief glimpse of a female TORRENT DUCK out a bus window. We searched in vain along the river for the duck and for a WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER that Joan had briefly seen. It would be some days later before the rest of us would eventually see both of these target birds! SLATY-BACKED NIGTHTINGALE-THRUSH was heard but not seen.
We reached the Tandayapa Lodge by nightfall. A light rain fell as we made our way up a series of seemingly never ending switchback concrete steps. I counted 76. Mercifully, our luggage was hauled up by the lodge staff. It was tough enough just to find the energy to make the climb with only our birding gear!
Stepping into a brightly lit great hall, we were warmly greeted by friendly, welcoming staff, Andrew and Sarah, each with huge smiles and helpful directions to our comfortable rooms. Equally important we found a stock of cold beer and wine which was followed up by a sumptuous meal. We gathered to do our daily bird tally (58 day total/39 new to trip total) and what would also became a nightly ritual: to be informed of what was in store for the next day (and how early we would be getting up - groan!). We would be spending the next four nights at Tandayapa, taking day trips into the surrounding area. Yes! We could leave our bags unpacked for a while!
A few observations about tropical birding challenges:
Average rainfall in the tropics is typically high. Even in the “dry” season one should expect rain. It may appear in short daily doses or it might be an all day affair. But be prepared.
Money spent on birding optics, which can withstand wet weather (waterproof, fog-proof, etc.) is money well spent. You get what you pay for.
Reliable rain gear is a must. One item which birders in Wisconsin might not appreciate is a compact umbrella. Rain, when it occurs, will usually fall straight down. An umbrella will greatly reduce the chances of getting your gear wet. In thick jungle, even after the rain has stopped, residual water in overhead canopy can make it feel like it’s still raining. It takes a bit of juggling to get used to birding with an umbrella but it’s well worth the effort to learn. Wearing rain gear (even the so called “breathable” kind) can become uncomfortable in high humidity very quickly. An umbrella allows one to not have to “button up” so tightly and on sunny days, an umbrella can afford much needed portable shade.
This was the first trip where it was suggested that we bring boots – tall rubber boots. “Wellington” style boots. I will never, ever again leave home on a tropical birding trip without my rubber boots!
With so many more bird species to see in the tropics, the law of averages suggests you will see more birds. But finding birds in the tropics is far more challenging than one might come to expect. Some bird families are superior skulkers. They may call loudly and call often, but trying to find the little buggers – even when they are only a few feet away in dense cover – can be nigh on impossible! There’s a reason why so many tropical birders have many “heard only” birds checked on their life list! Patience is a virtue many people come to value when birding but especially in the tropics. Patience and being quiet.
And about the foliage: Think about spring warbler migration in Wisconsin – it’s much easier before the trees completely leaf out, right? Well, in the tropics, the leaves are ALWAYS there! And if you think trees in Wisconsin are tall, wait until you crane your neck to look up a strangler fig over a hundred feet high – which blends with all the OTHER surrounding trees! In the tropics it isn’t “warbler neck” it’s “tanager neck”....but its a stiff neck just the same.
The ability to find a bird – and then tell someone where to look – is an art form. That’s why the professional guides are so well appreciated. Even with the help of technology, like a carefully pointed laser light, locating a bird for someone can be frustrating for both the “show-er” and the “show-ee”. Having multiple eyes in a group can be an advantage. But when half the group sees a bird and is trying to tell the other half where to look all at once, it can be overwhelming! It’s best to let one person do the talking – usually the guide. Even so, not everyone will see every bird. Most birds, yes, but not all the birds. Be prepared not to see everything because you won’t.
You’ve carefully studied the field guide. All those unfamiliar and new common bird names – what an alphabet soup! Was that a rufous capped, napped, necked, breasted, winged, tailed, vented, rumped, or throated something or other? Many bird names have multiple parts. Was that a Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant? Yes it was a something-Tyrant but was it a Pygmy-, Tit-, Bristle-, or Tody- Tyrant? When a mixed feeding flock (think “fall out”) suddenly appears and everyone is calling out names left and right, it’s best to focus on one bird at a time because you won’t see them all anyway. But oh, my! What a rush to see so many wildly colorful birds with such marvelously descriptive names! At the end of the day, when the guide is going through the daily checklist – that’s the time to make sure which is what. And hope that the next time you see that bird you can recall its name! Thankfully, both our guides, Richard and José, patiently repeated names for as many times as was needed!
