Day 4: Tandayapa Lodge “Hide” & Seek the Upper Valley Road
Our first day full at Tandayapa found us up and about before daylight (no big surprise!). We filtered into the great room for coffee and tea to fortify us for our hike in the dark out to the “hide”. The hide was a wooden blind designed to enhance close observation of wildlife. This would be the first opportunity to put flashlights we had been asked to bring to good use.
Rain, which welcomed us to the lodge the day before, was now a light drizzle as we trekked up the winding 500-foot trail to the hide. The wet and muddy trail (remember those boots!) was slow going. Once inside the hide we found one entire wall consisting of floor to ceiling sections of screen facing a small covered forest floor feeder lit by a light left on all night. Birds have learned that the light means a free meal, coming to feed on insects attracted to the light. We positioned ourselves on wooden benches behind the screens and waited quietly to see who would show up.
In addition to the light, the lodge’s compost pit is also located here. Grubs and insects associated with the compost presented birds with another incentive to appear.
We strained to listen for bird vocalizations as rain fell on the hide’s tin roof. Earlier that night a RUFESCENT SCREECH-OWL had been calling. Eventually there was some discernible movement in the brush. A SCALED ANTPITTA skulked cautiously into view. An IMMACULATE ANTBIRD announced its impending arrival with a raucous call, then strolled into view from around a corner of the hide. CHESTNUT-CAPPED BRUSH-FINCH also put in an appearance.
After an hour, and with daylight now upon us, we trekked back to the lodge for breakfast where we were mesmerized by the constantly changing eye candy mobbing the hummingbird bird feeders on the upper observation deck. TAWNY-BELLIED HERMIT, BROWN VIOLET-EAR, ANDEAN and WESTERN EMERALD, GREEN-CROWNED WOODNYMPH, RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD, SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD, FAWN-BREASTED and EMPRESS BRILLIANT, BROWN INCA, BUFF-TAILED CORONET, GORGETED SUNANGEL, a rare visit by a HOARY PUFFLEG; PURPLE-BIBBED WHITETIP, BOOTED RACKET-TAIL, a stunning VIOLET-TAILED SYLP, and two WOODSTAR: PURPLE-THROATED and WHITE-BELLIED. 18 species of hummingbird in about a half hour (we would total 20 for the day)! It’s understandable why we were barely able to eat given all the distractions!
Finished with breakfast, we spent more time on the upper deck sorting more hummers along with other birds now seen in trees around the deck including TRICOLORED BRUSH-FINCH. Hummingbirds were particularly attracted to my red rain jacket, often hovering inches away or even landing on the jacket’s hood. Mike came to pull us away from the observation deck to watch a male ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK preening some 50-feet from the front door of the lodge.
We were then lead down to the lower observation deck where there were treetop views. Rain continued on and off (mainly on). When a small feeding flock appeared we added PEARLED and STREAK-CAPPED TREERUNNER, BLACK-CAPPED TYRANNULET, GREEN-AND-BLACK FRUITEATER, BROAD-WINGED HAWK, BAND-TAILED PIGEON, RED-HEADED BARBET (female seen briefly), SWAINSON’S THRUSH, SUMMER TANAGER, YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER, BARRED BECARD (heard only), RUSSET-CROWNED, BLACKBURINIAN, and THREE-STRIPED WARBLER, TROPICAL PARULA, BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER, BLACK-CAPPED and GOLDEN TANAGER and DUSKY BUSH-TANAGER.
How close were we to the equator at Tandayapa? Looking out from the lower observation deck, located in the northern hemisphere, birds seen in the distance across the valley were in the southern hemisphere! One species viewed a hemisphere away was a LEMON-RUMPED TANAGER. We would catch up with this bird in greater numbers and with much closer looks in a day or two.
Initially our plan for the day included hiking the Potoo Trail but given the rain and slippery trail conditions and potential problems associated with congested jungle birding, José suggested that we instead try the Upper Tandayapa Valley Road. Foregoing the trail walk meant we would probably give up a few forest species. On the other hand, road birding would give us an opportunity to search avifauna up to 1900-feet higher than the lodge, and, provide lots of “elbow room”. As Phonce, in the movie “Rare Birds” was fond of saying, “Always have a Plan B, Dave”. Plan B it was.
Following lunch we descended the winding concrete steps down to where our bus was parked. Niko drove us part way up a narrow road, then dropped us off so we could walk and bird. Rain had let up but we still experienced intermittent sprinkles. Our first SICKLE-WINGED GUAN made an appearance. So too FLAVESCENT and GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER. WHITE-CRESTED ELANIA, WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET, STREAK-NECKED FLYCATCHER, WEDGE-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD, COLLARED INCA, TYRANNINE and MONTANE WOODCREEPER, RED-BILLED PARROT, WHITE-WINGED BECARD, CAPPED CONEBILL, WHITE-LINED TANAGER, YELLOW-VENTED WOOPECKER, and a glorious PLATE-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN.
In late afternoon, we worked our way back to the lodge, adding ORNAGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA, WHITE-SIDED FLOWERPIERCER, BERYL-SPANGLED, METALLIC-GREEN, and GOLDEN-NAPED TANAGER, WHITE-CAPPED PARROT, LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER. We heard but did not see SPILLMAN’S TAPACULO, BLACK-WINGED SALTATOR, and RUFOUS-BREASTED ANTTHRUSH.
At the lodge we enjoyed Happy Hour while Annabelle, and her hard working kitchen staff, prepared our evening meal. Prior to the tour, Carol and I had known only Marge, Carol’s sister, who had been with us on some of our other birding adventures. The others in the group, while familiar to us as members of the Wisconsin Birding Network listserv, or as belonging to the WSO (Wisconsin Society for Ornithology) were known to us in name only. Now, after three days of traveling together we had all become good friends. Every meal presented an opportunity to learn more about each other. We looked forward to exchanging stories about the day’s adventures and as well as hear stories from our guides, Richard, José and our driver, Niko.
Also present at the lodge that evening was the president of the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation, Brian Kronke. Brian graciously offered to answer any and all questions we might pose about Ecuador and in particular the mission of MCF. Other guests at the lodge included a birding couple from the Pacific Northwest, Bill and his wife (their last name escapes us). These were people Richard had bumped into on other birding trips. Carol and I are always amazed at the number of interesting folks we meet on our trips. While birding may be our main attraction, social interactions are equally important to us. What good is an exciting adventure if one cannot share it with friends?
During our nightly checklist tally (88 day total/75 new to trip total), José announced we would be leaving the lodge in the morning before daybreak. After an hour’s drive we would arrive at the 175-acre Río Silanche Sanctuary. What a task-master! We kidded José a lot during the trip about pushing us so hard but we appreciated that he kept us on the go. We retired, hoping that rain wouldn’t be an issue the next day. But if it were, well, it is what it is!
Group dynamics: While reporting on our whereabouts and bird sightings each day, it is difficult for me to put into words just how well everyone in the group got along with one another. It’s critical on trips that a group coalesce well. It’s not always a given that people who share a common interest are able to blend personalities without clashing. Fortunately everyone on the trip was possessing of a sense of humor which saw us through some of the more challenging moments. There was a lot of good natured ribbing that took place but there was also a lot of sincere caring for one another. This might sound overly “warm and fuzzy” but it’s important to note that we all did more than just “get along”. We made new friends.
