Food and Drink
While the state of Oaxaca is best known for its Day of the Dead celebrations, monumental Monte Alban archeological site and local artisans, it’s equally famous for its delicious Oaxacan cuisine. Even among the famous cuisines of Michoacán, Puebla, Yucatán and other states of Mexico, Oaxacan food is distinct and diverse.
It draws from the deep cultural heritage of the Zapotec, Mixtec, Chatino, and other indigenous peoples as well as Spanish, African and Mestizo influences, ingredients and cooking techniques.
It’s also shaped by geography. The State of Oaxaca encompasses the fertile slopes and valleys of the Sierra Madre Sur Mountains as well as Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
The city and surrounding barrios offers hundreds of opportunities to sample Oaxacan cuisine, the result of ancestral farming and traditional cooking methods.
Barbacoa de chivo, goat meat bathed in a lightly-spiced sauce of tomato, onion, jalapeño pepper, onion and avocado is one of the most popular Oaxacan dishes to enjoy on weekends and fiestas.
Caldo de piedra (stone soup) is traditionally prepared by the men of a village as a sign of respect for their wives, mothers, elderly or other distinguished members of the community.It features seafood, epazote, tomato, onion, garlic and chile pepper.
Oaxaca is renowned for its artisanal chocolate, crafted using techniques passed down through generations. Unlike mass-produced chocolate, which often employs mechanized processes, Oaxacan chocolate-making is an intimate affair that often involves traditional tools. Chocolate makers also blend other local ingredients such as almonds, peanuts, spices, or sugar cane, infusing their products with unique and diverse flavors that reflect the region’s agricultural bounty.
Chapulines (grasshoppers and other insects) is an ancestral culinary tradition in Oaxaca. Insects are high in protein, inexpensive to source, easy to prepare and convenient to store, all of which makes them appealing as a food source. Definitely an acquired taste.
Empanadas. Somewhat similar to a calzone, this crescent-shaped street food can be prepared with a variety of fillings such as beef, turkey and pork. They’re stuffed with shredded chicken and mole amarillo, the versatile yellow salsa flavoured with chile costeño, chilhuacle amarillo and chile guajillo.
Memelas, another street food usually for breakfast or brunch. Memelas are made with corn masa similar to tortillas but thicker and more oval-shaped. Before adding toppings, the masa is flattened and toasted over a comal griddle. Traditional Oaxacan memelas are slathered with a black bean paste, sprinkled with cheesy queso fresco and topped with salsa. But they can have a wide variety of other toppings added as well, including potatoes cooked with poblano chiles, huitlacoche, squash blossoms, or eggs.
Moles. Probably the most iconic of traditional Oaxacan food, there are seven moles: Mole Negro, a dark, slightly spicy and intense mole with a chocolate base, traditionally served over chicken. Mole Amarillo, a deep yellow sauce featuring cumin and choles and thickened with corn masa, served with chicken or mushrooms. Mole Chichilo, an intense mole featuring charred black chilhuacle Chile and avacado leaves. Mole Manchamantel, slightt;y fruity sauce using pineaplle, plantain, tomato, Chile peppers and more. Mole Rojo, a red mole usually served over pork. Mole Verde, a green mole featuring sesame seeds, pumpkins seed, Chile, parsley and epazote. And finally, Mole Coloradito, another red mole with a tomato base.
There are also a number of local deserts, wines, and artisan beers available at a wide variety of cafes and restaurants. Something for everyone’s taste and budget.
And last but not least, Mezcal, distilled from agave. Oaxaca artisan mezcal (also known as mescal), is produced by purely traditional methods using materials like wood and clay during distillation through copper stills. There are over thirty known agave species, varieties and subvarieties in contrast with tequila which is only made from blue agave.
Mezcal is typically drunk straight - “sipping” - although its smokey flavor is popular in mixed cocktails like margaritas. Lately, the popularity of mezcal has caused the price to rise beyond the reach of some of the working class. Sampling mezcal in Oaxaca de Juarez is a must. Several locations offer tastings at various price points with the opportunity to purchase.